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Featured Destination: Daegu, South Korea |
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by Kim Hye-jin, photos by Im Jay-cheon |
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| In this world, there are things that change and things that are
slow to change. There are things that should change, and things that
must change. What can control or regulate this flow of change? The
world is always giving way to something new. Everyone clamors for
innovation, afraid not to change. But catch your breath for a moment
and look behind you. There you will find the trace, the memory and
the scent of the way we once were. |
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Excuse Me? How long?
Commerce was quick to develop in Daegu, long an important center of
transportation. With roads stretching out in all directions as well
as the navigable Nakdong and Geumho Rivers, Daegu was the distribution
point for goods from all over the nation. Wherever people gather,
certain things are bound to develop, things like markets, schools,
and places to eat. The pride of the city and the hub of life are the
markets. Browsing in the markets of Seomun, Chilseong, Gyodong, Beongae,
or Paldal, you invariably find some small eateries tucked away in
a corner. After walking your feet off in the market, everything looks
good. The freshly made cold noodles of Seomun Market, the flat dumplings
(known as "beggar dumplings") and seasoned fishcakes of
Gyodong Market, and so on and on. Eating and shopping must be inalienable
attractions of travel. |
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People of Daegu have a reputation for being
conservative and rather blunt. Their undemonstrative character may
well be related to the climate of this basin surrounded by mountains:
hot sultry summers and its harsh cold winters. But once they get under
your skin, the
unshakable constancy and forthright honesty of the people grow on
you like the aroma of sauce seeping out of a homely earthenware pot.
Discount stores and supermarkets sell an assortment of goods. The
old-style markets also sell goods and then throw in a whiff of humanity.
Hygienically packaged vegetables and frozen meat are too sterile.
But the fish, vegetables, and dried seafood spread out on lowly street
stall come with something of the seller's life. The faces
of the merchants who rise early to buy the goods and then prepare
them for the day, tell a story of bygone time an sentiments. They
may look forbidding, but once you get talking to them, they are as
warm as a mother or grandmother willing to haggle, give discount or
give extra. The generosity and the warm heart of the people at the
marketplace touch your heart. |
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| Places of Refuge
for Daegu residents. Thinking of the Daegu basin conjures
up the image of a place lacking in green areas, but it is surprisingly
well provided with parks. Dalseong Park, laid out along the line
of fortifications built to the north of Dalgubeol (as Daegu was
then called) around the 2nd century BC, is both a place of refuge
for the residents and an historic park. Here you can find a monument
to the poet Yi Sang-hwa, the Gwanpungnu Pavilion, and the Zoo. Local
residents love to climb the trails of Apsan Park and Duryu Park
where at the top, spacious rest areas equipped with amusement facilities
delight children and adults alike. When the Gyeongsang Gamyeong
office was set up with the responsibility for administrative, legal,
and military affairs of Gyeongsang Province under the Joseon Dynasty,
Daegu grew as one of Korea's three major cities, along with Seoul
and Pyeongyang. As befits such an important building, the Gyeongsang
Gamyeong is located in the heart of the city, near the Daegu railway
station. Although no longer used for government business, this historic
place is open for the citizens to take life a little slower and
peacefully, away from the busy world.
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The most noteworthy mountain in Daegu
must surely be Mt. Palgongsan. So dear was this mountain for the ancient
people of Daegu, they called it Buak, or "Father Mountain,"
and were very fond of climbing it. Situated in this mountain are ancient
temples of Donghwasa, Pagyesa,
Buinsa, as well as the Buddha statue Gatbawi, known as the best place
to pray in Korea. Ancient temples bearing the aura of millennia, hoary
wooden columns wrinkled with age, and faded paint on the colorful
carved roof brackets-all these soothe the stresses of busy, fatiguing
city life.
As Daegu took on a pivotal role in the nation's industrialization,
the city lost much of its greens as it grew into a giant metropolis.
But unceasing efforts of afforestation brought down the average temperature
and the city has begun to shed the reputation as the hottest place
in Korea. Daegu is one of the best examples proving that human will
and hard work always pays off. |
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A Festival of Youthful Energy A great festival for
the youth of the world, the 2003 Daegu Summer Universiade will really
heat things up in Daegu this August 21st to 31st, the contest brings together
future leaders in a celebration of world peace and harmony. Daegu has
historically been a city of strong Confucian tradition and scholarship.
The noble spirit of the literati is alive to this date in Daegu Confucian
School where recitation of Chines classics ring out loud and clear. In
the city, where in Joseon era, the strong Confucian tradition led to founding
of distinguished Yeongnam School, pride in learning continues to inspire
the endeavors of the many colleges and universities.
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The humanistic tradition, believing that the strength to change
the world, or to preserve it comes from learning and the people, is
the foundation of the confidence of the city. That self-confidence
is not confined to schools and similarly enclosed spaces. Standing
on Dongseongno, that great thoroughfare through the heart of the city,
you can sense the determination and the boundless energy of young
people who are about to enter a new era. Once famous for textiles,
Daegu is now making a bid to enter the modern fashion industry under
Milano Project. The new waves of fashion and the clothing boutique
that proliferate on Dongseongno are one more expression of Daegu's
will to create something new on the basis of the past.
Daegu is truly an unusual city. You seem to understand it, and yet
you don't; it seems unfamiliar, and yet you nod in recognition. To
get a feeling for Daegu, you must see beyond Dongseongno, and wander
off into the back alleys. There, you can read the traces of time and
cultural pride, savor history, and feel a little closer to the city,
for you will find beauty in the marks of life that permeate from each
nook and cranny. |
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| Kim Hye-jin
is an editor of ASIANA culture. Im Jay-cheon is a photographer
who likes to take heart-warming pictures that show the world as seen through
caring eyes. |
