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 TRAVEL GUIDE
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  Featured Destination: Hanoi, Vietnam
 
Text and photos by Ed Bailitis
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Once dubbed the "Paris of the East," Vietnam's capital Hanoi is almost an architectural museum of a French provincial town of the 1930's. Despite most buildings still languishing in a state of somewhat advanced decay, Hanoi's distinct reflections of French colonialism remain as intact as when notables like the English novelist Graham Greene was there almost fifty years ago. Lingering over coffee on the pavement outside the Caf?over coffee on the pavement outside the Caf?de la Paix, now the Paris Deli: Boulangerie et Caf? opposite the opera house, Green watched the troops pass and the lovely drifting Tonkinoises, " tall elegant girls in white silk trousers." Nestled around picturesque Hoan Kiem Lake, the compact old French town site on the right bank of the Red River was the capital of French Indochina from 1903 until 1953. Years of turmoil that followed the departure of the French in 1954 have not erased the impress of the colonists. Hanoi has all the ingredients to beguile even those who do not pretend to be a Francophile. Stonework villas, Catholic churches, government buildings, some surviving blue French street signs, and ubiquitous green shutters and wrought-iron fences all recall the eighty colonial years under the French.
More attractive than Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi's pace remains languid, still very much attuned to the hum of Bicycle peddlers, with less traffic, less noise, less pollution, more trees and more space. A stay here can easily be spent peeling back the layers of time in order to discover Hanoi as it existed in the 1950s. All it takes is a French map, "Ancienne de Nomination des Rues" (available from the Institute of Architectural Research), showing the city as it was, and a contemporary map, courtesy of Hanoi Tourism. Step out of the Metropole Hotel; into what was once Boulevarde Admiral Courbert, and imagine how Graham Greene must have felt.
The significant architectural legacy left by the French in Hanoi is all with in a walking radius. It includes the Doumer bridge, St. Joseph's Cathedral, the Louis Finot Museum, Hanoi University, the Metropole Hotel, beautiful villas and an opera house.
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A belle époque delight built in 1911, the Hanoi Opera House has only recently been restored to its former glory, complete with its preserved crystal chandeliers, Parisian mirrors and sweeping staircase of polished marble. It is now the Municipal Theatre. Nonetheless, almost everything is exactly as you could imagine it would have been in any similar turn-of-the-century building in metropolitan France, except smaller. Based on the Neo-Baroque Paris Opera, with Ionic columns and gray state tiles imported from France, the Opera House was regarded as the jewel in the crown of French Hanoi, the colonial town's physical and cultural focus.
As part of economic development that is only now gathering momentum, old French buildings are slowly receiving a face lift, albeit mostly fro foreign investors. The first colonial building in Hanoi to be restored was the Metropole Hotel. Once called "the jewel of Hanoi," it opened in 1900 as the Grand Metropole Palace, and was one of Southeast Asia's great hotels.

Journalist Bernard Falls described the hotel during the French War (1947-1954) as "the last really fashionable place left in Hanoi," where the barman "could produce a reasonable facsimile of almost any civilized drink except water."
Nowadays it is the Hotel Sofitel Metropole, but the hotel was renamed the Thong Nhat (Reunification) Hotel after reunification in 1975. It stayed much as it was, along with en suite rates and lethal wiring, until its face lift was completed in 1992, without destroying its green-shutter charm. The only other buildings that so far seem to show any sign of care are those of foreign embassies and UN agencies. Many of them have been lovingly restored. The large villas with their classical proportions and green shutters is ochre, the shade of old English mustard. It is as if officials had come across an abandoned stockpile of yellowish paint and attacked every stucco wall in slight.
" In the late afternoon, when the sun is low, the buildings actually give off a warm glow," a resident said, "But nobody cares. Many buildings are now beyond repair."
Vietnamese officials did not seem to care much for the Hanoi left by the French.
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In 1966, New York Times journalist, Harrison Salisbury, reported that the Vietnamese believed Hanoi would be flattened, by systematic American bombing. "They expected that their capital would be wiped out," he wrote. "They were not despondent. They already had in preparation architectural plans for construction of a new capital. They would not rebuild Hanoi; at least, not, as a seat of government.
After all, they said, 'Hanoi is a small, old ugly city. It symbolizes the French occupation. After the war, we will rebuild our own capital',"

If the Vietnamese did not implement much in Hanoi for forty years after the French left, certainly nothing has been lost because of it. Hanoi today has the potential to become one of Southeast Asia's prettiest cities. UNESCO and UNDP, working with non-government organizations such as the Friends of Hanoi's Architectural Heritage, are determine to see this happen. Countries such as Australia, France, Sweden and the Netherlands are donating much needed funds to protect historical structures.

The Chief Architect's Office has also imposed restrictions on development around Hoan Kiem Lake to protect the area's French legacy. A thirty-two meter (eight-story) height limit has sent a number of building projects, like Hanoi Plaza which was to have been completed in 1998, back to the drawing board. An added irony is that new buildings, such as the Hanoi Hilton Opera hotel next door to the former Opera House, are now also required to be built in a French vein, and to be a shade of ochre.

Those who think they are in the know say that Hanoi's French architectural style is Bordeaux is only partly accurate. In Hanoi, the style may be French classical but with a touch of something else as concessions have been made to time and place. For example, the prominent architecture of the History Museum (one block behind the Opera House and built in the 1930's by l'Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient) is a fanciful blend of Vietnamese palace and French Villa which came to be called "Neo-Vietnamese."
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South of Trang Tien Stree, the main artery of the French Quarter ending in front of the Opera House, was known as Ville Francaise. It was French Hanoi's residential enclave consisting of a grid of shaded boulevards whose distinguished villas are now much sought after for restoration as embassies, offices or expatriate residences. These houses run the gamut of early twentieth century French architecture from elegant Neo-Classical through 1930s Modernism and Art Deco, with an occasional Oriental flourish.
Immediately north of Hoan Kiem Lake is the congested yet vibrant Old Quarter, which dates from the 15th century when Hanoi was known as the city of thirty-six streets and guilds. This area, the French called Cite Indigene, is also dotted with dilapidated mustard colored structures, with green shutters over traditional long and narrow Chinese dwellings. The French overlay, here on a previous existing cultural mélange, with temples and shrines around St.
Joseph's Cathedral, borders on the surreal. Here, like elsewhere in Hanoi, local residents have embraced and maintained the café mentality of the French. Hanoians are prolific coffee drinkers, which has spawned hundreds of cafes over the last few years. Some of them hole-in the-wall, others elegant with French names like Le Café Des Arts, advertising itself as " looking like the 'Lain Quarter in Paris'," which, with a bit of imagination, is not too far off the mark. Signs in surrounding shop windows declare, "Ici on parle Francaise" - French is spoken here.The subtle burgeoning French renaissance in Hanoi however, does not detract from, nor overwhelm what is essentially an Oriental, and whether the Vietnamese like to admit it or not, a Chinese city. Its very name is a legacy of China which ruled Vietnam for a thousand years until 939 AD.
The reserved and deferring Confucian attitude of Hanoians is reinforced by the revered historic Temple of Literature, and intact sprawling complex of structures of past Confucian studies and examinations which was Hanoi's first university. Erected in 1070, the five walled courtyards are modeled on the ground plan of Confucius' birthplace in Qufu China. Along with other, old, distinctly Oriental Structures, it stands as counterpoint in a corner of Asia where architecturally at least, West poignantly meets East.
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  Ed Bailitis is a freelance photographer based in Sydney, Australia.

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