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  Featured Destination: Seattle, Washington
 
Text by Norman and Brian Thorpe
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A new museum in Seattle, Washington, has become an important destination for fans of popular music - drawing 1.6 million visitors since it opened a little more than two years ago. The museum combines state-of-the-art audio and visual technology with a spectacular collection of memorabilia, offering music lovers an opportunity to be immersed in the history of rock and roll and the artists who created it and even to make music of their own.
The museum is housed in a bright, multicolored building unlike any other. The unique architecture curves, swoops, and undulates in a physical representation of music. The wavy, asymmetrical "sides" are plated with steel and aluminum panels that cast strange reflections. Some visitors love the design; others say it looks more like a big ball of gelatin that plopped down from the nearby Space Needle, Seattle's landmark tower. At first sight, it may be hard to imagine that such an unconventional structure houses one of the most high-tech collections of musical artifacts.Called the Experience Music Project (EMP for short), the museum was a brainchild of wealthy Microsoft co founder, Paul Allen, and an associate, Jody Patton. It sprang from Allen's passion for guitarist Jimi Hendrix, who grew up in Seattle before setting out on the trail that led to his international fame as one of the rock and rolls most innovative performers.
Alien, former partner of Bill Gates, amassed the worlds largest collection of Hendrix memorabilia, then decided to share the collection with the public. At first, only a Jimi Hendrix museum was planned, but soon a broader mission took shape: build a much bigger rock music museum that would celebrate all kinds of pop music innovation. The museum was built to be a place to explore the forces that influenced a multitude of rock musicians, hear their music and the musicians' own comments about it, and even see their hand-written lyrics.
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The $240 million museum houses a collection of more than 80,000 artifacts that helped shape music history, including one of the first electric guitars ever invented, and others used by artists such as Bob Dylan, Bo Diddley, Muddy Waters, and Kurt Cobain. It has extensive archives of recorded music, film, photographs, stage costumes, rare song sheets, and fanzines from around the world. More than 1,200 artifacts are on display, and others can be seen and heard electronically.
The destination is popular with both young and old. Young people, who live in a culture steeped in rock and roll and deeply marked by its musicians, are fascinated to learn about rock and rolls history and see instruments and other relics from this famous period of music development. But people aged into their sixties also grew up with rock and roll, and still harbor fond memories of the songs, artists, events, language, and clothes popularized by rock and roll culture 40 or more years ago. For many of them, rock and roll culture defined their youth, and the museum reconnects them with that era.
"Pretty neat," says an older man viewing the Fender Stratocaster guitar that Jimi Hendrix played at Woodstock less than a foot away. While looking, he can also hear the legendary version of "The Star-Spangled Banner" that the guitar god played at Woodstock. Each visitor to the EMP is assigned a small electronic pack that allows the visitor access to information about any exhibit, or high quality music clips.
Visitors enter the exhibit area through the expansive Sky Church, which takes its name from a Jimi Hendrix song. The room is a great hall of sorts, where concert footage and music videos are shown on the worlds largest indoor video screen. At other times the Sky Church is used as a concert hall.
Early on their tour, visitors also encounter a sculpture, two-stories tall, crafted from more than 500 guitars and other musical instruments, many of which are linked to robotics so they play on cue.
Each customized guitar plays only one string at a time, so it takes six guitars together to create a single chord - a metaphor for how musical styles and traditions mesh. From there, visitors go to various exhibit galleries, some of which include: Guitar Gallery, tracing the evolution of the guitar, the signature instrument of rock and roll, from being a quiet instrument in the 1700s to the modern electric guitar, with its roaring feedback, throbbing bass, and big fuzz-toned power chords. More than 50 guitars are displayed - each incorporating historic innovations that changed the course of music. The exhibit also celebrates the work of such innovators as Orville Gibson, Leo Fender, and Les Paul.
Milestones, a series of exhibits spanning the 1940s to the present, each marking diverse expressions of creativity and the independent spirit of rock and roll. The exhibits include the roots of rock, hip-hop, and punk, and a section focusing on three key innovators: Bob Dylan, Eric Clapton, and Janis Joplin. Displays include Dylans harmonica and acoustic guitar; Joplin's floral bell-bottoms, velvet blouse, and feather boa; and original artwork for Joplin's "Cheap Thrills" album. A fascinating part of this gallery asks the question: "What was the first rock'n roll record?" Although there was no single beginning, the museum says that by 1956 everyone knew rock and roll had arrived. The exhibit explores the development of rock and roll and the influence of such music genres and artists as: Popular postwar music by Wynonie Harris; Jump and boogie music; Gospel and doo-wop; Hillbilly and honkytonk, including the music of Hank Williams; Electrified blues from Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, and Big Mama Thornton; New Orleans rhythm and blues by Fats Domino and Lloyd Price; And the birth of rock and roll in 1956 with Bo Diddley, Chuck Berry, Carl Perkins, Elvis Presley, and Little Richard.
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Northwest Passage, a tribute to musical development in the Pacific Northwest region around Seattle, a center of rock and roll universe for many years. The EMP traces such events as the "Louie Louie" phenomenon and the garage bands that spawned it. The "Louie Louie" lyrics were even investigated by the FBI, which thought they might be subversive. Here you can see files from the FBI investigation. The gallery also explores the influence of the Northwest music scene with other singers and groups such as Ray Charles. The Fleetwoods, The Kingsmen, The Ventures, Heart, Queensryche, Nirvana and Kurt Cobain, Soundgarden, Pearl Jam, The Presidents of the United States of America, and Sir Mix-A-Lot.
Hendrix Gallery, the EMP's most popular exhibit. Although its one of the smaller displays in terms of size, it's probably the most comprehensive in terms of classic memorabilia and artifacts. Visitors gain a deep sense of Hendrix's accomplishments before his untimely death in 1970. Representative of the material in the gallery is a hilarious audio clip of The Who's Pete Townshend talking about how jealous he was when Hendrix used Townshends trademark guitar-smashing act. Artifacts here include shards from guitars that Hendrix smashed at his Farewell to London concert at the Saville Theatre in 1967, and at the Monterey International Pop Festival later that year. Other items include stage costumes, notebooks of Hendrix's hand-written lyrics, his pedals and audio mixing gear, and his 1969 Woodstock contract. Because of the Hendrix Gallery's compact size and because of the number of fascinating items, there can be a significant wait to get in. While waiting to get in, visitors are entertained with music video of B.B. King, Led Zeppelin's Jimmy Page, and Rage Against the Machines Tom Morello.
The EMP focuses on rock music, but it doesn't ignore hip-hop. Among the other exhibits, one chronicles the roots of rap that began with break dancing and New York City's subway graffiti art. Artifacts include Grandmaster Flash's turntables and clothing worn on stage by Snoop Dogg, RunD.M.C., and The Fearless Four. Another mind-blowing exhibit focuses on punk rock and the Los Angeles punk scene. There's also a theme park "Funk Blast" ride that shouldn't be missed. Still other exhibits change from time to time.
The Sound Lab is the answer for a sudden urge to jam after viewing all this musical genius. There, visitors can learn to play simple guitar and bass guitar riffs as well as drum bits. More experienced musicians can visit one of the 12 soundproof practice rooms. The museum also hosts many concerts and special events.
Visitors should arrive early and expect to stay late. (The museum has dining facilities.) Wear comfortable shoes, have fun, and enjoy the music.
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Norman Thorpe writes frequently for Asiana. He lives in Spokane, Washington, USA. Brian Thorpe is a student at Wesleyan University in Middletown, Connecticut, USA. He plays guitar and has written extensively about rock music. | Photo Credit: Photos by Stanley Smith and Lara Swimmer. Copyright 2000 by Experience Music Project.

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