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  Featured Destination: Delhi,Agra and Jaipur, India
 
Text by Kim Hye-jin and Photos by Lim Hark-hyoun
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Delhi, Agra and Jaipur: the Golden Triangle

India is a country that provides endless inspiration to artists and those who seek to change their lives. Colorful clothing contrasts vividly with the drab look of the land. Indian music has captured the souls of the people for thousands of years. Fabulous buildings bring the world's great architects to their knees. The great land of India seems to dangle the key to all this, but if you want to catch at least a glimpse of the heart of India, the best place to go is the Golden Triangle consisting of three northen cities: Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. In this incomparable trio of cities, all your expectations and curiosity about India can be quickly satisfied.


Diversity and Continuity

Hinduism historically had no scriptures to expound its doctrines and no concept of paganism. It is a religion of everyday life that governs the life and soul of India. This religious outlook is like a great river that flows along unobstructed, absorbing all things and developing them together. It is also connected with the unique optimism of the Indian people. For thousands of years their souls have been soothed by Indian music, played on a few instruments without fixed rules, ringing out eternally like an endless echo. This music is symbolic of India itself, a country that has absorbed all things yet has'nt stood still; a country where memories of empire, prosperity, and colonization are jumbled together. It's a country to watch in the 21st century.

Desire and Happiness

Human happiness rises close to heaven only when we love unconditionally or give unstintingly. Just as the true self is attained by forgetting the existence of the self only when we abandon desire does happiness seep into our hearts like the first rays of dawn. It sometimes seems as if all that the Indian people have is the vestiges of a glorious history, and in their eyes it is hard to see the burning light of desire. People from countries in which the standard of living is much higher than that of India nevertheless come to this land to learn how to overcome desire.

Heaven and Utopia

The buildings that Indians have erected in this land give full play to visions of heaven. The dazzling marble and glittering gems that rise from the soil tell of the flower-strewn path to the land of the gods. The desert flowers that bloom on this arid land are beautifully embroidered on palace walls and brightly colored carpets. A Koranic text inscribed on the red sandstone at the entrance to the Taj Mahal raises one's heart toward a utopia close to paradise. "Souls at rest, return to your lord and rejoice in Allah. Give Allah cause to rejoice. Join my chosen followers, and enter my paradise."

Delhi: a teeming jumble of the sacred and profane

The vast land of India is home to one-seventh of the world's population, seven major religions, and over 300 languages. It is both the oldest cradle of civilization and a newborn nation not long past Independence. Only a small percentage of its people have computers, yet its level of software know-how is second to none. This is a land where elementary school children learn not just the nine times-table but the nineteen times-table. And the capital of this land is Delhi.

Diversity and continuity, the twin hallmarks of India, appear to the full in Delhi. If you want to meet the pandemonium of Indian street life head on, try immersing yourself in the crowds of Chandni Chowk. Here, everything from jewelry to magnificent wedding goods are sold here, while places of worship for Hindus, Jains, Sikhs, and Muslims cluster together in one place. People live their whole lives on the street, eating, sleeping, buying, selling, cutting hair, telling fortunes, even going to the bathroom. Cows and horses, motorbikes and rikshaws, pedestrians and cars all mix chaotically together, and as you pass through this street, you feel that your standing at the heart of India, the land of Hindusim that has rejected nothing, accepted everything, and has never had a concept of paganism.

The Mughal Empire established its rule in the 16th century, calling its kings "sultans," and for 200 years it imprinted the grandeur of empire on Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. At the Jammi Masjid mosque, whose name means "the place for bowing to the ground," devotees wash their hands and feet before prostrating themselves in the lowest possible position. Mosques are never decorated with images of human beings or animals. Instead, simple Islamic designs adorn the walls and floor, the corridors and the exterior. The regular repeated patterns and the Koranic texts engraved on the doors are imbued with the humble spirit of Islam. On the other hand, we can readily imagine what heights of luxury were reached when we see the inner precincts of Shah Jehan's palace, the Red Fort, designed for the performances of beautiful dancing girls in the soft silvery moonlight.

Agra: a warm welcome to the city of love

The Mughal Empire had its capital in Agra in the 16th an 17th centuries, before moving to Delhi. The world-famous symbol of Agra is , of course, the Taj Mahal. Built by Shah Jehan as a tomb for his second wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal took 22 years to build and emptied the coffers of the kingdom. On this spot, visitors from all over the world take photographs and stand speechless in wonder. The marble wals, so white as to be almost blinding, are inlaid with flowers and designs executed in more than 35 kinds of precious stone brought from neighboring countries, as if to portray a vision of heaven. The Mughal Empire treated flowers as symbol of the kingdom of Allah. The colorful floral designs are produced by grinding gemstones such as amethyst, ruby, sapphire, and amber, mixing them with spices, and inlaying a thin layer of the mixture into the walls. They are especially bright and lustrous in the moonlight.

But after Shah Jehan was deposed by his son Aurangzeb, he spent his old age in Agra Fort across the Yamuna River. To this day, the view of the Tag Mahal across the river has heartfelt sadness in its beauty. Perhaps it's an after taste of the tragic love and obsessive devotion of an old man who lost everything and kept only his passionate love for his departed wife.

Jaipur: a festival of glory and victory

Founded in the 11th century by Jai Singh II, Jaipur is named the City of Victory, but is better known as the "pink city." Along with the landmark Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Wind, all the streets are pink. The maharajah (meaning "great king") fought against the Mughal Empire to the end and kept his independence, and when Prince Edward (later King Edward VII) visited during the British Colonial era, the whole city was painted pink to welcome him. The state of Rajasthan lives on.

The maharajah still lives here. The City Palace where he used to live is now open to the public as a museum, but the palace beside it is his home. It seems the epitome of splendor and luxury, but 11km away is the Amber Fort where past maharajahs used to live. Today's visitors are dumbstruck by the magnificence of the building and its furnishings. the reception room is so lavishly spangled with gems and mirrors that if you light a single candle, thousands of flames glimmer. With its garden laid out in star shapes and the geometrical designs, and a special bedroom where the maharajah liked to make love by moonlight, the fort makes you marvel anew at the scope of the human imagination.

The place that makes you appreciate the potential of today's India, a country fast emerging as an IT superpower, is the 300 year-old observatory Jantar Mantar. Here, the world's largest sundial still keeps accurate time, and not only are the constellations observed, but a separate clock is provided for a number of the constellations, laying the foundation for the development of astronomy. This was not just a place for observing the stars and the time, but for predicting how hot the summer would be, when the monsoon rains would come and how long they would continue, and when there would be floods and droughts. It leaves you marveling at Indian ingenuity.


 

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