• What about travel to and inside Korea?
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South Korea is easily accessible, with international airports and in
addition ferry terminals, connecting to Japan, China and Russia.
Dependent
upon your nationality, visas might or might not be required (please check at
your nearest Korean embassy or consulate). Most visitors from e.g. Europe or the
US do not require a visa to enter Korea, and can remain here 90 days legally.
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| Most visitors to Korea arrive at one of three points: the Incheon
International airport, built on reclaimed tidal-flats 1 hour west of Seoul;
Busan International airport in the southeast of the country; or Busan ferry
terminal, if traveling between Southern Japan and South Korea. |
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From Incheon International
Airport visitors have several choices: car hire, bus or taxi. Buses run
regularly into the central bus station in Seoul, connecting to the Seoul subway
system, the national railway system, and the nationwide express bus system. For
those wishing to fly, there are some domestic flights from Incheon, but most are
from Gimpo - an hour away by a regular transfer bus. Car hire is easy to
arrange, and not too expensive (typically about 70 000 won per day, with cheaper
rates available if hired by e.g. the week).
Key points to remember include:
1) an international driving license is essential; and 2) cars need to be
returned to the original starting point. In addition, many hire cars use a
special fuel, LPG, which can cause problems as there is still a shortage of LPG
filling stations. |
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| At Gimhae International Airport, limousine bus services run
visitors into the main hotel areas (e.g. Seomyeon and Haeundae) relatively
cheaply and quickly. Car hire is also available. |
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| At Busan International Ferry terminal, there are three main options for
traveling to and from southern Japan (a popular destination for winter
birdwatchers): the overnight Camellia ferry; the Beetle hydrofoil service
(highly recommended, and significantly cheaper than flying); and the recently
opened Kobee hydrofoil service. Although marginally cheaper than the Beetle,
this service appears not to be as reliable (with engine problems and
cancellations in e.g. June 2002) and cannot yet be recommended. The ferry
terminal is close to the Busan subway lines and national railway station.
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| ** Roads |
| The road system is reasonably comprehensive and rapidly developing. Most
roads are signposted in English as well as Korean, and there is now an
expressway, with cheap tolls, connecting Seoul in the northwest with Mokpo
("gateway" to the south-west islands and to Haenam) in the far southwest. Travel
time, except on national holidays, is roughly 6 hours for the approx. 450 km.
There are also expressways from Seoul across to the east coast, and of course
between Seoul, Daegu, and Busan (distance approx. 450 km: travel time again
about 5.5-6 hours). |
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| Several notes of caution, however : |
| 1. Some road signs are extremely difficult to follow. This is because
many roads are new and not numbered in a western style, instead changing number
and back again irregularly along their course; because many place names look and
sound extremely similar to people unfamiliar with Korea (e.g. Inchon and
Incheon, Gangrung and Gwangneung etc); because some place names are spelt
differently in maps and on road signs (due to the recently revised spelling
system, changing K to G, P to B, Ch to J etc see below.); because some roads
suddenly lack signs (e.g. on stretches between Incheon and the international
airport); and because in many rural areas, signs are of course only in Korean.
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| 2. Driving in South Korea is for the experienced and confident only.
Roads can be extremely busy and driving, especially in major cities (especially
Incheon, Seoul and Busan), is extremely challenging. |
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| 3. During the major national holidays, such as the Lunar New Year,
the roads are extraordinarily congested, with journey times between Seoul and
Busan increasing to 24 or more hours! |
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| Those choosing to drive are well-advised to : |
1. avoid major holiday periods;
2. buy the most recent road
map (available in the bookshops in the international airports);
3.
Prepare the route well, before starting your journey;
4. Allocate 30%
extra time to allow for delays. |
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| For visiting the best, out-of-the-way sites, road however is by far the most
efficient means. |
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| ** Rail |
Korea has a very efficient, clean, punctual and relatively cheap rail
system. The national train system has two main styles, the faster, more
expensive Saemaul, and the cheaper, slightly slower Mungunghwa. Traveling
one-way between Seoul and Busan for example costs between about 20 000 and 45
000 and takes between 4.5 and 5.5 hours. Trains are often full, however, and
tickets are best bought in advance.
North-south services are frequent, but
services west-east are however rather more limited, though similarly cheap and
punctual.
At most main city stations, there are special counters for
foreigners, and usually some staff have basic English skills and are very
helpful. |
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| ** Buses |
| Buses are often more frequent than trains, are often a little cheaper, and
are generally equally punctual. They however are usually not as comfortable or
clean. On longer journeys, buses typically have only one 15 minutes toilet and
snack stop. If roads are busy, buses often travel in excess of the speed limit:
definitely not for the nervous. |
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| ** Domestic Flights |
| South Korea has a good airport system, and there are frequent Korean Air and
Asiana flights between major destinations between ca 6:00 am and 21:00 at night.
Tickets are surprisingly cheap, and often can be bought the same day as travel
(though not at peak season etc). |
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| ** Boats |
For island birding, ferry boats are essential of course. Please be advised
though that inclement weather often leads to cancellations, in the worst cases
for several days at a time.
The southwest islands are connected to Mokpo by
an extremely efficient hydrofoil system. Reasonably priced (e.g less than 50 000
won for the 4.5 hour journey between Gageo Do and Mokpo), and punctual, all of
the catamarans are clean with friendly and helpful staff. |
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| Arrival |
Departure |
Departure Time |
Traveling Time |
Fare(won) |
| Daeheuksan Island |
Mokpo Harbor
(Via Hong Island) |
07:59 |
2 and
half hours |
14000~22150 |
Gageo
Island |
Mokpo Harbor |
08:00 |
3 hours |
39800 |
Eocheong
Island |
Gunsan Harbor |
One Ferry
(Between 06:30~11:00) |
3 and
half hours |
21800 | |
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* Other west coast boats are connected by slower, smaller boats,
some being more reliable than others! The Eocheong boat is frequently cancelled
due to weather or engine problems, and in addition runs at different times each
day because of the high tidal range. |
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| • What about accommodations? |
South Korea has an abundance of accommodation for visitors, even more so
after successfully hosting the 2002 FIFA World Cup.
There are several types
of hotel available: international-standard quality hotels; tourist hotels; and
the so-called "love motels".All major cites have top quality hotels: information
can be sought on arrival at the airports, or can be booked in advance through
e.g. the internet. Tourist hotels are found in most cities, whether small or
large. They tend to charge about 80 000 - 120 000 per night per room, and often
have typical hotel services. They are often, however, a little inconvenient for
birdwatchers (being found in city centers, away from the best birding areas),
and sometimes are very noisy (as they typically have night-clubs in their
basement or in adjacent buildings).
Much more strongly recommended for those
on a fairly tight budget are the so-called love motels that can be found
throughout the country, both in cities and in rural areas.
Although some are
not suitable for children or family parties, most are very clean, cheap (about
30 000 - 40 000 won per room per night) and conveniently located. All have hot
water, and underfloor heating in winter that helps to dry out wet clothes etc.
Many have been designated World Class Inns, ensuring a certain level of quality.
Love motels can be identified by their bright lighting, use of the word "Motel"
in their name (often written in English), and by a hot water mark. For
birdwatchers using such accommodation it is advisable also to take a set of
sheets and a pillow case, as the bedding customs are different, and sometimes
not liked by western people. |
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