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Bird Watching
 
Where to Watch Birds in Korea: a few good hotspots..
Northwest of Seoul

• Gwangneung National Arboretum
There are original areas of forest here, with patches of mature trees and dense undergrowth. Although often highly disturbed, quieter areas are not only both visually very attractive, but also support many of the most "wanted" forest and hill birds to be found in this part of the world. Note: It is important to reserve entrance to the arboretum 5 working days before your visit; in addition, it is not open at weekends or on national holidays (tel; details to add).

-Star birds
The river forming the border of the arboretum supports Mandarin Duck in summer and often Solitary Snipe and Brown Dipper in winter. The forest itself has woodpeckers all year round (with White-backed, Great Spotted, Grey-headed and Japanese Pygmy all very regular, and Black much scarcer), nesting Ruddy Kingfisher and Yellow-rumped Flycatcher in summer, and Hazel Hen and occasional flocks of Pallas's Rosefinch in winter.

• Cheorwon, DMZ
Much of the area has very restricted access, as it is adjacent to the DMZ, and reservations to bird here should be made in advance with the Cheorwon office of the Korean Association for Bird Protection (Tel. 033-455-8181). While not advising visitors to follow the approach described below by Brian Foster, one of a team of four birders from the UK visiting Korea in February 2002, his story is clearly worth retelling:
"To get into the DMZ we went to a cafe near Cheorwon and after having a cup of tea we pointed to the Red-crowned crane picture in our field guide and made a few gestures to indicate that we would like to see them and got out our road Atlas to ask for directions. The cafe owner got in his car and told us to follow him. He took us to the gatehouse of the Cheorwon County Office, pointed to the Red crowned Crane picture in our field guide and told the guys inside that we would like to see them. A telephone call was made by them and we were invited into an office in the main building. After half an hour's wait and another couple of phone calls Mr. Yang Kye-Hwan, a gentlemen who speaks excellent English, arrived. He got into our car and directed us to the DMZ. At the army checkpoint he produced a pass and we showed the guards our passports. Inside the DMZ we soon sighted 3 family parties of Red-crowned cranes within 50 metres of the road and then a wintering flock of around 130 Red-crowned cranes and 22 White-naped Cranes. We went for lunch at the cafe in the Iron Triangle Observatory and bought some souvenirs and the cafe owner then suggested that we go and see some "eagles". We all got into his car and he took us to a feeding station where carcasses are put out. Here at less than 50 meters range were 36 Cinereous Vultures and 1Stellers-sea Eagle. Mr. Yang then gave us a sightseeing tour of the DMZ. This whole day was an example of the excellent hospitality and generosity shown to us by the Korean people throughout our stay in South Korea."
-Star birds

Red-crowned Crane : immortalised
in art and culture, this species is
as rare as it is beautiful.
(copyright of Chris Artuso)
From especially October through to March, huge numbers of geese and other waterbirds and raptors move into the DMZ, and can be seen in the Cheorwon basin. Amongst several species of global conservation concern present are the Red-crowned and White-naped Cranes described above and raptors including Cinereous Vultures and the occasional Steller's Sea Eagle. The area also seems to be especially attractive to Chinese Grey Shrike, an irregular bird further south.
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